Amethyst, Chennai, India

Colonial heritage is not necessarily something despised by all people. Often, colonial heritage sites are lovingly maintained for posterity. I remember way back in the mid ‘70s landing in Singapore after a wearying boat ride from Jakarta in steerage. Even in those days it was a sprawling modern metropolis with glass and chrome office buildings and shopping malls. There was also an Indian and a Chinese sector, both abounding in distinct ethnic flavors but otherwise unremarkable. At some point, I ran across the Raffles Hotel, a delightful colonial structure, elaborately appointed with wicker furniture and plush carpets and pillows. Raffles owes its celebrity to one of its guests: Somerset Maugham, who once referred to this particular hotel as the symbol for "all the fables of the Exotic East".
The Raffles Hotel is just one of hundreds such places that proudly celebrate colonial heritage throughout the Far East. These are points where travelers and ex-pats converge to share their tales of adventure, pick up a souvenir or two and eat a familiar meal.

In India, there’s Goa with its blindingly bright, whitewashed Portuguese style churches and its ‘swimming attire optional’ beaches; there’s Puducherry (see my previous post) on the opposite coast where an entire neighborhood is carefully being preserved to retain its distinct French demeanor.

Chennai has Amethyst, a beautiful colonial bungalow, the most famous of the many heritage buildings here that have been converted into art galleries coffee shops, boutiques and restaurants.

Immediately, after having entered through its tall gates, it feels like the temperature drops about twenty degrees. This is due to the profusion of well-tended tropical greens throughout the premises. The atmosphere is relaxed. People come with their laptops or to talk business over light stimulants like tea or coffee. Hookahs are brought on request. In addition, pastries as well as western-style meals are available - at inflated prices, I might add. But you don’t begrudge it - or the leisurely service - because the place is so exquisitely lovely – such a radical departure from the hectic pace outside.

I had a hamburger which tasted somewhat different from what I expected. It might have been the ketchup. I can’t say it was bad – just different. The coffee afterwards was excellent.

After our meal, we visited the boutique. The stuff there was first class (Indian) designer ware and fabulously expensive. There were clothes and leather accessories, jewelry, original art and dinnerware. Upstairs they had antique furniture for sale.

Amethyst is a great place to unwind from the apparent chaos of Asia. You can order a coffee and nurse it all day while reading a book about the Mogul architecture. Nobody will ask you to leave. If you remain there long enough, Amethyst’s ginger cat might even consent to make an appearance. She’ll be staring at you from underneath one of the unoccupied tables. You can find Amethyst on Facebook.

Peter Koelliker; pkoelliker8@yahoo.com