Kochi, India

Kerala is in many ways a paradox. It is one of two Indian states that boast of having a Communist government. Kerala (along with Bengal in North India) is touted as having the highest literacy rates on the sub-continent. This singular political and educational distinction has not come without cost. Heavy government interference in the private sector – regulation; taxation – forces many young men to seek employment elsewhere. Malayalam (the language of Kerala) is liberally heard in neighboring Karnataka and Tamil Nadu (where I presently live). My dentist is Malayali; the internationally known movie play-back singer, Yesudas, down the street from us, is a Malayali; 60% of the hospital nurses in the West are Malayalis. And nearly every Kerala family has someone working somewhere in the Middle East – so much so, that announcements at the airport in Dubai are also given also in Malayalam (anybody notice that the word is a palindrome?)

My first encounter with Kerala was Kochi (or Cochin as it was then called). On the ride from the airport, the differences between Tamil Nadu and Kerala become immediately apparent. There was hardly a stray dog to be seen. Also missing were oxcarts, and cows wandering aimlessly about in major traffic. The streets seemed much cleaner than those across the border. The vegetation differed too; much more of what you’d expect a tropical island paradise to be. Of course it rains steadily for four months out of the year. Consequently, roads are built with run-offs as to remain passable even during the monsoon season. (Unlike in Tamil Nadu where, when it rains only a little, knee-high water routinely collects on the streets.)

Kochi is the commercial center of Kerala by virtue of its excellent harbor. Travelers and spice traders from all over the world – from the Chinese to the Romans – have been stopping here for centuries. Many ancient accounts by seafarers and traders make reference to the convoluted history of this sliver of a state that hugs the lushly tropical Malabar Coast.

Kochi is made up of Ernakulam on the mainland plus a series of islands (at least one of these man-made). A tour boat takes you around the harbor, making frequent stops. Of these, the most fascinating is Jew Town which once housed a significant Jewish population and claims the oldest synagogue in India. It’s a must-see for all those whose Asia cruise liners stop here. The narrow streets have one antique shop after another, crammed with wonderfully tempting treasures to suit every taste and budget. There are also a few western-style restaurants with excellent reputations.

Another must-see are the Chinese fishing nets and the Church of St. Francis where Portuguese adventurer, Vasco da Gama lies buried.

For those able to spend a few days, there are the refurbished rice boats that take you along the inland waterways in style, stopping here and there to enjoy the delicious (coconut-based) Kerala cuisine. If you’re extremely lucky, you may even witness Kathakali, a unique form of classical dance theater that is somewhat similar to Japanese Kabuki. Performances are generally held at night by the light of a single oil lamp (Aatta Vilaku) with sixty wicks. Some say Kathakali is the “art of the non-worldly”.

Peter Koelliker; pkoelliker8@yahoo.com