DakshinaChitra Redux: Lord Ayyanar

I recently visited DakshinaChitra again. There is so much to see here, one visit is not nearly enough. This time, their Ayyanar statuary collection caught my eye. Lord Ayyanar is a Hindu village god, worshipped predominantly in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu and in Tamil villages in Sri Lanka. He is primarily worshipped as a guardian deity who protects the rural villages. His priests are usually non-Brahmins, who belong to mostly the potter caste, but other caste members also officiate in his temples. The temples of Ayyanar are usually flanked by gigantic and colorful statues of him and his companions riding horses or elephants.

The Tamil word Ayyanar (or Aiyanar) is derived from the root word Aiyā which is a title often used by Tamils, Malayalees and Telugus to designate ‘respectable’ people. The word derives from the Proto-Dravidian term denoting an ‘elder brother‘. It is used in that meaning in various South Indian states. Yet some derive the word Aiyā as a Prakrit version of the Sanskrit word ‘Aria’ which means 'noble’.

Interior South Indian villages often exist outside the reach of the central government. Yet for countless generations they have functioned well and effectively based on an emphasis on civic duty, and codes of honor and respect. It is not necessarily a utopian model as we commonly see it in modern communism. Though there are such elements inherent here as well. But rather than an emphasis on a nameless state, it’s power derives organically from an acceptance of the wisdom of elders who perpetuate an appreciation for strict ancestral lineage.

As the agrarian villages have prospered, the Ayyanar statuary came to be painted in bright, modern colors. The DakshinaChitra collection adheres to the older version in which color has yet to been introduced.

Peter Koelliker; pkoelliker8@yahoo.com

DakshinaChitra: Picture of the South

DakshinaChitra literally means “Picture of the South” in Sanskrit. It is a popular Chennai (formerly known as Madras) tourist destination only twenty-five kilometers south of the city along the East Coast Road at Muttukadu. Its ten rolling acres overlooking the Bay of Bengal contain representative dwellings from four South Indian states: Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Kerala. Each home is furnished in the appropriate regional style. Weavers, potters and the other craftsmen give continual live demonstrations of their regional arts and crafts. In addition, DakshinaChitra can also boast of having a wonderful art museum, a gift shop and an open sky amphitheatre where music and dance performances are often given.

On my last visit, the theme was ‘Asia’. Accordingly, a classical music group from Japan had been invited to perform. After the Japanese Consul General had said a few words by way of explanation, we were treated to a fine performance of Japanese dance. Earlier various delicacies from five different South East Asian cuisines were offered for sampling – all, prepared and provided at nominal cost by top Chennai hotels.

On a prior visit to DC, a Kerala Theyyam dancer had come to perform and pose for pictures. He was dressed in full and stunning regalia, dancing up a storm, bare feet stomping the hot dust until our own teeth rattled in time with his silver ankle bells. It was a truly inspired performance quite in keeping with DC’s usual standards.

DakshinaChitra lists the special events it has contracted for on its informative website. Even without anything of note scheduled, DC is well worth a visit. Within the time it takes between arriving at any given airport and taking off, one will have had a taste of the diversity that is South India. It is recommended that you watch a 15-minute film before starting your tour. Guides are available but not mandatory. Exhibits are clearly marked, their relevance explained in English.

Above all, DakshinaChitra is a peaceful place. The ride down from Chennai along the East Coast Road by hired car is likely to put your nerves on edge. There’s nothing like entering the lush green park-like setting and leaving the bustle of modern India behind. I suggest you arrive around lunchtime and relax with a traditional Indian thali at DC’s excellent restaurant before going on your exploratory tour.

Unlike in many places – even back in the States – here at DC the taking of pictures is actually encouraged. You’ll come away with a treasure trove of images representative of different places without even having had to leave your comfort zone – and you’ll have learned a bit as well.

Peter Koelliker; pkoelliker8@yahoo.com